Sewing – Page 8 – Sew Beach Life

Wandering Back Into Wovens

When I first learned to sew, it was with woven fabric. I think most people start out using wovens either because that was the type of fabric their Mothers and Grandmothers used and taught them with, or because they gravitated toward garment making after learning to quilt. I made myself plenty of cotton woven clothes in my teens, and so many pretty dresses for my daughter when I was in my twenties. I also recall making a bathrobe for my husband (with tons of piping) and a dress shirt for my son (all those buttons and buttonholes!) But sewing with knits seems so much easier and forgiving, so I had completely switched over to knits and didn’t look back.

Then two things converged that has me wandering back into wovens. Phee Fabrics started carrying stretch twill, which intrigued me. A local sewing store held The Tunic Bible workshop, which sounded sort of fun. And it would have been fun, but it was way out of my budget range, so I put it out of my mind. But then I started seeing the dresses the women made at the workshop on a Facebook sewing group I belong to. And I needed the pattern!

It’s totally my style- a simple and straight-forward design, yet with the opportunity to personalize. So I looked for “The Tunic Bible”, by Sarah Gunn and Julie Starr at a couple of local stores and neither had it in stock. I probably should have driven to the closest bookstore, but it was easy enough to order the book online. ISBN 9781617453564. The pattern is included in the book as two large copy shop sized pages printed front and back. I traced the basic tunic and all the placket options in my size, dug through my 25 to 30 year old stash of wovens for fabric to use as my muslin, and got started.

The book is kind of a “look book” with lots of photographs of the tunics to give you inspiration, and includes directions for basic tunic construction and for each of the placket options. It recommends finishing your seams with French seams to give your tunic a more couture finish. I chose to use flat felling on my shoulder seams, as it seems easier/cleaner to me.

I made a sleeveless tunic length top with a wide split placket as my first muslin, and like the basic look. However, it was immediately obvious to me that it is too wide across the shoulders in the front. Frankly, it’s too wide even if I were adding sleeves, even though I had traced on the sleeveless line. Despite yoga class and trying to have good posture, years of deskwork and hunching over a computer have taken their toll and given me forward rotated shoulders. While wearing it, I placed a row of pins in my top where I wanted the shoulders to end. After taking it off, I laid the pattern on my shirt and marked my new cut lines adding in the seam allowance.

Thinking that I had solved my fit problem, I moved on to a dress length muslin using the V-neck placket. Although the pattern includes all the plackets, the tunic is NOT marked with all the neckline cuts. You are expected to match up the center lines and shoulder seams and trim away the excess fabric on the front and back bodice after sewing on the facing. If you are an experienced sewist, it’s easy enough to do, although it can feel nerve-wracking to not know for sure that you are cutting it properly. This could be a bit overwhelming to someone that is just learning to sew.

Trying on the dress revealed my second fit issue. The bust darts are not in the proper place for my body. I am longer than average from shoulder point to bust apex. This fit issue should not have been a surprise to me, since I frequently have to adjust patterns because they cut into my armpits. Since knits are so forgiving and most knit patterns don’t have bust darts, I didn’t really think about the bust dart. As you can see in my dress, the bust darts are way too high and too far apart. Since that puts the fullest part of the bodice above my bustline, there is a bit of pooling there.

So I did a bit of research online to figure the best way to lower a bust dart. I had determined the amount I needed to lower the bust dart by measuring from where the dart fell on my body, down to the bust apex, and ended up with an inch difference. I also decided to make my bodice a size smaller, since my measurements put me between sizes and I had traced out the larger size. A couple of sites recommend just cutting out the bust dart section of your pattern, moving it down to where you want it, and filling in the cut out section with paper. Since I always keep my master patterns intact and trace out the size I need, I decided to move my pattern piece up an inch on the master pattern and trace the bust dart and smaller size bodice.

I finally felt confident enough with the pattern to cut into my navy stretch twill and make a dress. I loved the look of the wide split placket on my top, so decided to use it again. The Tunic Bible recommends using petersham ribbon or bias tape for trimming your tunic, but since I had a vision of the look I was going for, I had ordered three colors of stretch twill and made my own “bias tape”. Here’s where the beauty of stretch twill comes into play. On my muslin top and dress, I had cut strips of fabric on the bias to trim the arm openings, etc. Since stretch twill has spandex in it, and 10% stretch, I didn’t have to cut my trim on the bias! I used Wonder Tape (a wash-away double stick tape for fabric) to hold my trim in place on the placket while I top-stitched it, and let me tell you- it is a total game changer. I used to pin all my trims or pockets in place, then sew and hope that things didn’t shift or get a weird bubble from the pins. Wonder Tape is awesome and so much easier. I highly recommend trying it.

I love how my first dress turned out! It reminds me of a dress my Grandma used to have when I was a little girl. She was rather stylish, and very beautiful, and an all-around wonderful person. ❤ I miss her so, and wish I had a photo of her in the dress I remember. I swear a photo exists, but my Mom didn’t recall it. Sigh. Anyway, I have a beautiful new dress that reminds me of her, and I will wear it all summer long!

I decided to go with a solid color for my next dress, and used the ruffle neckline. This is an unusual choice for me because I don’t “do” frilly. Lady-like, yes. Girly and frilly, nope! I’ve put ruffles on the bummies I made for my grand-daughter, but what looks cute on a baby or toddler doesn’t equate to looking cute on me! I don’t know what possessed me to try it, but I actually like the end result. The coral stretch twill is so bright and summery, and it looks like something I would wear to a cocktail party. (If I were one of those people who throws or gets invited to a dressy cocktail party, which I’m not. :-)) But I feel pretty in it and will probably wear it to my nephew’s wedding this summer.

I’m happy to have wandered back into wovens, and all it took was the intrigue of a new fabric and a few Facebook posts to do it!

Now I’m contemplating what other woven patterns I have to play with. I bought a yard of the white stretch twill, and hope I have enough left to make a GreenStyle Havana top out of it. I made a maxi length Havana out of some random gauzy fabric in my stash about a month ago, and liked it. I think the stretch twill will flow just as prettily. Are you ready to wander into wovens?

*This post may contain affiliate links. This means that at no extra cost to you, I may receive a small commission if you purchase through my links. As always, I only give my honest opinion. After all, it is my blog, which represents me! Thank you for reading and sharing my love of sewing, fabrics, patterns and creativity. 😉

GreenStyle Jillian Tank

Powernet “Colorblocking” And A Hidden Seam Pocket

I love sewing workout wear for several reasons. First of all, I need something to wear to yoga class. Secondly, I am far too frugal to spend $50 or more on a cute workout top. And last but not least, I can customize my makes to suit my style and color preferences.

I have had the vision of a white workout top with powernet inserts floating around in my head for a while. I just hadn’t gotten around to sewing one up. Enter the GreenStyle Jillian Tank. The pattern is loaded with options: a bandeau top; an inner tank, with or without a built in sports bra; and an outer tank that can be made with knit or woven fabric. I chose to make the inner tank with a built in sports bra.

I used white Supplex and white Powernet from Phee Fabrics to make my Jillian Tank. I like the simple design of the Jillian inner tank, because it gives the powernet inserts the opportunity to stand out. Adding inserts is really easy, it’s basically a simple color blocking technique. I cut two right angle triangles out of my powernet, being sure to cut them straight on the grain, with the greatest stretch going side to side. The sides of the L part of the triangles were 7″ long. I laid the triangles on the bottom corner of the tank front, and trimmed off the excess powernet to match the shape of the corners.

I marked the tank front 6.25″ up and 6.25″ over from the bottom corner and using my quilting ruler and rotary cutter, cut off the (smaller sized) triangles from the bottom corners of my tank front. Then I laid the powernet triangles on the tank front right sides together and stitched them together. I pressed the seam allowances toward the Supplex and top-stitched them in place so that you wouldn’t see them through the powernet.

I like to walk the beach whenever I get the chance. Since I don’t want to have to carry my phone and keys, I need pockets. I put pockets in all my workout tights and shorts, but occasionally, I’ll find myself wearing something without pockets. So why not start adding pockets to my workout tops? A hidden seam pocket gives cleaner lines than a patch pocket, not to mention how much easier it is to keep straight while sewing!

I cut a 4.5″ wide by 8″ tall rectangle out of powernet. I made it that large to ensure that my phone would stay snugly in place, yet still be able to reach in and grab a key or lip balm from the bottom of the pocket. I folded the top of the pocket down and stitched it in place. Then I laid the pocket right sides together 3.75″ from the right edge of the tank back at the bottom corner. I stitched along the right hand side of the pocket.

Then I flipped the pocket over and basted it along the side seam, and zig-zagged it in place along the bottom of the pocket. (Had I cut the pocket a bit longer, I would have lined it up with the bottom of the tank and just basted it in place.) When the tank is hemmed, the bottom of the pocket is securely sewn in place.

After these simple modifications, I just followed the pattern tutorial to complete my tank. I made another small adjustment to the pattern out of necessity. The pattern calls for double straps threaded through the top of the front shoulder strap. Rather than cutting and sewing the straps, I used plush bra strap elastic to speed up my sewing time. Since my strapping was wider than the sewn straps would have been, I went with a single strap.

I love having a solid white workout top to mix and match with my Super G‘s. The powernet inserts and pocket give the simple lines a little extra pizazz.

I can style it with a skirt or shorts for a completely different look.

I could see myself using this simple color-blocking technique to add in coordinating fabrics if I were trying to match workout tights with color-blocked side panels. The hidden seam pocket can be customized to fit whatever you want to carry. It’s so much more useful than the tiny little key pockets you find on ready to wear!

Go ahead and sew all the workout wear! After all, it is #memademay.

5oo4 Escapade Experiment

From Ties To A Strap, And A Little Ventilation

I literally cannot seem to stop myself when it comes to hacking patterns. I’ll buy a pattern because it’s a cute design, or has lots of options, and I may or may not make it as written. Then I’ll start thinking, “Maybe it would be fun to add…” or, “What if I changed that into…” There are some really talented .pdf pattern designers out there, and I am so impressed by them, because I don’t have the talent to design a pattern. They’ve done the hard work of figuring out fit and design. And I get to do the fun part of personalizing patterns to suit me, or fill a need in my wardrobe.

I bought the 5 Out Of 4 Patterns Escapade Top and Dress pattern months ago, and hadn’t gotten around to making it yet. I love all the options: bikini top; tankini style top, and dress. When I first bought the pattern, I think I planned to make the dress first. I love dresses. And since the Escapade has a built in bra, it’s an easy way to get dressed in the morning! But I usually go to yoga class 4 days a week, so a workout top was a bigger need than a dress. Which is what led to my experiment.

The Escapade is designed to have a drawstring style strap that can be tied halter style (handy if you are nursing or want to easily adjust the strap length), or tacked in place as straight or criss-crossed straps. Since I enjoy Ashtanga and Power Flow yoga classes, there is a lot of movement involved, and I do NOT want any movement or shifting of my straps! There is also a center front tie that gives separation, shaping, and lift to the bra front, but I didn’t want to feel the tie when we do upward bow or other floor work. So that’s what led me to my hacks.

I made my Escapade using Supplex and Powernet from Phee Fabrics. Supplex is hands down my favorite fabric for workout wear. It’s moisture wicking and antimicrobial, so you don’t feel all sweaty or get stinky clothes from your workout. High quality powernet is essential for good support when you’re making bras, so I always use it in the front and back of my workout bras.

I cut out all my pattern pieces except for the drawstring strap, since I made that by cutting two 1.5″ x 30″ strips of Supplex and one strip out of powernet. I sewed them with the Supplex right sides together and the powernet on top along the two long sides. I used a safety pin to turn the strap right side out, then pressed it flat.

I basted the powernet to the wrong side of the bra front and back lining pieces, then sewed the lining together at the side seams. I also sewed the bra front and back together at the side seams. I turned the bra right sides out, and slid the bra lining over it, right sides together. I pinned them together along the top edge, then sewed along the top edge leaving an inch in the center back, and an inch at the bra front top points open.

I used a strip of powernet 1.5″ x 4″ to make my center back strap loop. I folded it in half lengthwise, and sewed it with a 3/8″ seam allowance. I turned it right side out, made a loop, slid it inside the center back opening I had left in the bra, and stitched it in place. Then I sewed 1/4″ clear elastic in the seam allowance along the top of the bra using a zig zag stitch. I stretched it slightly from the side seam up to the bra front points. I also stretched it slightly along the center front from point to point.

Stitch one end of your strap in place at one of the bra front points, turn the bra right sides out, string the strap through the loop and try it on. Adjust the strap length to fit you comfortably, while still feeling supportive. Then turn it inside out again to stitch the strap at the appropriate length, and trim off the excess. I think I ended up cutting a couple of inches off of mine.

Because I didn’t want the center front tie, I just made a gathering stitch down the center front of the bra top, and stitched my gathers in place with a zig zag, followed by a stretch stitch to ensure that my gathers stayed in place even with the frequent wearing and washing my workout tops get.

To add interest and a little ventilation to the back of my top, I marked a spot 5.25″ down from the top of the center back bodice, and 2.5″ from the center back fold and cut this triangle off with my rotary cutter.

Then I cut a 6″ triangle out of my powernet. You can use the triangle you cut out of the bodice, (adding 3/4″ on the two sides to give yourself a seam allowance) as a pattern.

Stitch the powernet insert in place on the center back, taking your time when you get to the point, lifting your presser foot, and swiveling to continue the seam up the other side of the triangle. I’m not going to lie, my triangle shifted a bit while sewing, and I seam ripped and resewed the point more than once. Oh, the joys of perfectionism while sewing! Use lots of pins to hold things in place, take your time, and hopefully you won’t have to seam rip and resew like me. Press the seam allowance toward the Supplex so that it won’t show through the powernet, and topstitch in place.

You can follow the pattern tutorial at this point to finish up your top. I wore my top to Ashtanga yoga class yesterday, and appreciated the ventilated triangle in the middle of my back. It was a great, rather sweaty workout and I felt cute and comfortable.

I paired the top with my GreenStyle Super G’s, which have powernet side pocket panels, so my new Escapade top gave me a cute matching workout outfit.

Don’t be afraid to try a hack to make a great pattern suit your needs. I will definitely use this pattern again. I think I will try the dress version next. Maybe in circular knit, or tricot… Which do you think?

5oo4 Zen Pants Made As Shorts

And An Internal Patch Pocket Hack

Summer time means shorts, and nothing screams summer like bright, white shorts. They look great with any color tank or tee, or thrown on over a swimsuit. In my quest to use every pattern in my collection I decided to try the 5 Out Of 4 Patterns Zen Pants, using the shorts cut line. The Zen Pants are a slim fit with optional front and back patch pockets and a side cargo pocket. There is also an optional faux fly, and drawstring waistband.

I like my shorts to be a smooth line under my tanks and wanted a dressy casual look, so I wanted to streamline as much as possible. Pockets are an absolute necessity, so I decided to turn the large patch pockets into smaller internal patch pockets, and to forego any other ornamentation. It’s fun to customize patterns to suit my needs, and I’m never afraid to try a simple hack. As I have noted before, I don’t show full pattern pieces to protect designers intellectual property.

The first step of altering the pocket was to decide how wide I wanted it. I laid my phone on the pattern pocket piece and knew that I could slim it down to the width of the X-small pocket. I laid my traced out pants front piece onto the master pattern pocket and used a pencil to draw lines from the hip up and from the top out to the outer top corner. I also curved the pocket side to follow the curve of the hip on the pants front. I am pointing to this area in the photo below. (The dashed line is the original pattern shape of the outer top corner of the pocket.)

Laying the pants front on the master pattern pocket piece allowed me to trace the curve to make the pocket opening on the pants front. That small piece in the upper corner of the photo below is the piece I cut off and discarded. I also hacked the pocket facing, (which is used to reinforce the pocket opening.) I like my pocket facings to be about an inch wide, so I traced the top curve of the pocket facing piece and just made it an inch wide.

Next I laid out all my pattern pieces and cut them out my fabric. You could use a ponte or one of the other recommended fabrics, but I find that shorts made of ponte make me feel too hot and sweaty. I love making my shorts out of Supplex. It’s moisture wicking, so it really helps keep you cool. And since it washes and wears so well, you don’t have to worry about using white Supplex to make shorts (or anything else for that matter!) Because I love the consistently high quality, I buy all of my Supplex from Phee Fabrics. It is a substantial 18oz., so I never have to worry about it being sheer. And, it took less than a yard of fabric for my shorts.

Place the pocket facing on the pocket opening right sides together, stitch, then flip the facing to the inside of the pocket. Give it a good press, then topstitch. The photo below shows what the facing will look like on the inside (or wrong) side.

Place the pocket right side up, to the wrong side of the shorts front, lining up the top and sides. Baste at the top and side seam, and pin the curved inner edge of the pocket to the front.

Use a zig zag, decorative stitch, or cover stitch to sew the pocket to the front. I used one of the “overlock” stitches on my sewing machine. Take your time sewing around the curve to make sure you are catching the pocket as you sew. Press everything smooth. From this point you’ll be able follow the pattern directions as written to finish your shorts or pants.

I like the idea of the back yoke/waistband on the Zen Pants, because it curves down to meet the pockets at the side seams and gives your shorts or pants a flattering shaped look. It does however take longer to sew than a simple rectangular or a contoured waistband that’s even along the bottom edge. I also like that the pattern tutorial gives you photos, drawings, and tips for some common pants fitting issues. I may try to scoop out the back crotch curve of my shorts a little to fit the shape of my bum. This should correct the wrinkles I seem to get on all pants patterns, (so I know that it’s my body shape, versus an issue with patterns.)

I love being able to make cute, comfortable shorts that will help keep me cool during the heat of summer. It’s nice to be able to customize them to suit me by choosing from all the pattern options and by a simple hack for the pockets.

Now I need to search through my patterns to see what else I need to make!

Pace Skirt

Tips For Pretty Pleats

Like many (most?) sewists, I like looking through patterns, and thinking about new clothing I can add to my wardrobe. I have eyed the GreenStyle Pace Skirt several times, and even when I’ve made bulk pattern purchases to get the discount, I’ve hesitated on the Pace Skirt because of the pleats. Pleats may seem intimidating, but you really can sew pretty pleats! I want to share some tips for making pleats, so you won’t be afraid to try this fun pattern.

The Pace Skirt has a plain front and pleated back, with optional attached briefs, or shorts with pockets! 🙂 Secret hidden pockets to carry your keys and phone? Not having to worry that a big gust of wind will come along, or that you’ll have to perform some kind of quick un-lady-like move while chasing a little one around? Sign me up please!

The pattern is drafted for a stretch woven skirt, with a stretch knit waistband and briefs/shorts. Since it can be challenging to find a stretch woven fabric, GreenStyle has a note in the directions that you can use a stretch knit by sizing the skirt portion down a size. I have learned to trust the extensive testing and excellent pattern drafting, follow my measurements, and make the recommended sizes. I like to print and tape a master copy of my patterns and trace out my size on parchment paper. That way I’ve always got my master pattern to go back to, even if my pattern pieces get torn or a bit crinkled up from use.

So here is my first tip: pay attention when you are tracing your pattern pieces. Because I was using a stretch knit, I had to remember to trace a smaller size for the skirt front, back, and upper back pieces, while using my measured size for the waistband and shorts pieces. This is also the time to lengthen or shorten the pattern pieces as needed. I am tall, so I added 1-3/8″ to the skirt length. I also used the high rise waistband pieces rather than the standard pieces. Can I just add here that I love that both rises are included in the pattern? I didn’t have to worry about adjusting the pattern to add to the rise, and those that prefer a shorter rise also have the appropriate pattern pieces.

Tip #2: Make sure that you are laying out your pattern perfectly on the grain. Grainlines and direction of greatest stretch lines are included on patterns for a very important reason. They help you line up the pattern with the fabric so that your garment will hang properly on the body. This is super important on the skirt back piece, because you will want to reference the grainline when pressing your pleats. If you cut it out on grain, it will make it so much easier to get perfect pleats. If you cut it out crooked, you will get crooked pleats if you follow the grainline while pressing.

Tip #3: Mark the pleat lines on the skirt back. The pattern piece is clearly marked with how to fold your pleats, so they go from the center outwards. You could use tracing paper or a disappearing pen, but I found it easy enough to use pins and clips. I placed pins along the top of the skirt at the pleat marks. And where each pleat folded over, and the next pleat started, I also added a clip. That was my reminder of where the pleat ended. In the photo below, I’ve already pressed all the pleats on the right outward toward the right side of the skirt. (I used the metal hem guides to help hold my pleats in place while I made the folds to pleat the other half of the skirt back. You could also just use pins or clips to accomplish this.) Since I had made sure that I cut my pattern piece on the grainline, it was easy to follow the grainline to press the entire length of the pleat down to the hemline. And obviously, I need to clean my iron, because little white specks of build-up have flaked out of the steam ports! 🙂

Tip #4: When pattern directions suggest that you baste, take the time to baste! The small amount of time that it takes to baste, will save you so much more time when you are sewing your pieces together. Once all of your pleats are pressed, pin them in place so that you can baste them down before sewing on the upper back piece. Check out those pretty, pressed pleats!

By following the pattern directions, you will end up with a fun, flirty, pleated skirt! It can be casual everyday wear when paired with a simple tank top. In this case, a rayon spandex GreenStyle Staple Tank.

You can use the built-in briefs option if you prefer it when playing tennis or golf. If you’re like me and want pockets to hold your stuff while power-walking, I recommend the shorts. I love the “secret” pockets!

I also love that you can change the vibe and wear the Pace Skirt for dressier occasions by wearing a chiffon top, or adding a jacket or cardigan. This RTW top had been languishing in my closet because I didn’t really have anything to wear it with.

I am very happy with my new skirt. My husband complimented me on it, and said that he loves the pleats. ❤ Even with the built-in shorts, I don’t feel overheated because I used Phee Fabrics circular knit which is moisture-wicking and super comfortable. There’s no need to feel intimidated by pleats. If you have any questions about sewing or pleats, feel free to comment and I will try to help you out. Take your time, use my tips, follow the pattern directions, and add some cute new skirts to your closet!

The Staple Tank

Call It A Basic, Call It A Staple

You can call it a basic, or call it a staple, just know that you need the GreenStyle Creations Staple Tank in your wardrobe! A few months ago there was a post on the GreenStyle Facebook page asking if there was a pattern you hoped would be designed. Everyone was invited to share Pinspirations, photos, or whatever they wanted to convey their idea. Some people envision something fancy or fashion forward, but I am a basic girl. I shared a .gif from the Lara Croft Tomb Raider movie, you know the one. Where she’s running through the jungle, and her tank top stays perfectly in place. Her bra straps are covered, and the top looks perfect from every angle. That is what I was looking for- the perfect tank top.

And Angelyn of GreenStyle designed it! Can you imagine trying to design a top that fits XXS to 3XL, with all of the wonderful body shapes and heights that encompasses? I was lucky enough to be on the pattern testing team, which means that I have sewn several of these tanks. The pattern is a simple sew, and includes the option for neck and arm bands or bindings. So if you love the clean look of bindings, you’ve got it. If you do better at sewing bands, you’ve got that too.

It’s the perfect fit to throw on with a pair of shorts (in my case, Brassie Joggers cut at shorts length, made out of Phee Fabrics Supplex). My bra straps are completely covered, and the scoop neck is a flattering depth, without being too high or too low. It’s a slim enough fit to look cute tucked in, and you can layer it under another top, a sweater, a jacket, or cardigan. I love my Sunday Cardigan(s), and even when they are made of a super lightweight or sheer fabric, the Staple Tank lays smoothly under them.

I love a dressy basic that looks great with a skirt. The super soft rayon spandex from Phee Fabrics is the perfect weight to not be sheer and has enough recovery to make perfect bands (or bindings). I need a Staple Tank in all the spring colors! I can get dressed in minutes, throw on my cardigan, and look put together and ready for the day. It’s definitely a staple in my closet!

My GreenStyle Fit Capsule Roundup

Sew All The Workout Wear!

I’ll start off with my newest makes from earlier this week. Before I spent three days helping my Mom and before I ended up with the flu. 😦 I knew I had to get my sewing fix in before I left for my Mom’s, so I made a couple things I really wanted and needed.

My love for Super G’s is strong, so I made a pair in navy Supplex with navy powernet pocket panels. As soon as these new colors were listed on the Phee Fabrics website, I had to place an order! Navy is a great basic, so I will wear these a lot. Since I always find myself reaching for a Studio To Street Top when I get chilly, I decided to make another one in Phee’s pretty periwinkle rayon spandex. I did the V-neck, V-back, curved hem version, except I cut it straight across in the front, and did a 4-1/2″ split hem on the bottom sides. This kept it a little bit longer in the front, and gave me a cleaner, (though similar look) to the split band version I made previously.

Since it’s not a capsule without at least three pieces, here’s my flat lay photo that includes my Brassie Jogger shorts. If I have enough Supplex left in any other colors, I plan to make more Brassie shorts because they are seriously the most comfortable shorts ever! It’s a bummer that I couldn’t capture the true colors with my indoor photo.

My Lille Tank and Norah Nightgown mash-up was the anchor for my teal and charcoal Supplex capsule. I used powernet in the front and back bodice, as well as for the pocket panels on my Super G’s. And look, it’s another pair of Brassie shorts!

Plum Supplex and neon green tricot made such a striking combo for my Power Sports Bra and Super G’s. I rounded out my capsule with a plum Supplex Lille. Because it’s a solid, I’ll be able to mix and match it with items in my other capsules.

Hacking the Power Sports Bra into a workout top was my first Fit Capsule item. And it looks great with my gray Supplex Super G’s. Of course I need to include one of my comfortable rayon spandex Studio To Street Tops to round out this final capsule.

All in all, I have really enjoyed sewing for the Fit Capsule Challenge. It pushed me to expand my workout wardrobe and to finish up some pieces that I know will get tons of wear. Here’s hoping that I can get over this flu and get back to yoga on Monday!

Cardigan And Again And Again

Because A Cardigan Goes With Everything!

I have grown to love cardigans. It’s not that I haven’t always liked them, it’s more that I didn’t know how to rock one. In the corporate world, I was more of a suit or dress and jacket kind of girl. If only I had owned this pattern then. Because a duster length cardigan over a dress is a great look!

I’ve made the GreenStyle Sunday Cardigan before, and I’ve even written about it in a previous post. I just keep on making them because I love the look. The pattern has several options: knee length; duster length; sleeveless; cuffs, lace-up sleeve cuffs; two sizes of pockets; and a hood. You can get so many different looks with this pattern. But I have to admit that I keep making the duster length because I just love the simple drama of it.

I live in a state without a real winter, am “of a mature age” and easily overheat, so I have no need for a hood. But the hooded version made in a soft hacci would look so cute on my daughter, who lives where it still snows.

I remember reading a discussion on the GreenStyle Facebook group page about whether you can rock a long cardigan with shorts. The answer is yes, you absolutely can! I think the key is using a lightweight fabric to keep it flowy and seasonally appropriate. I used a fun purple waffle mesh from Phee Fabrics for my latest cardigan. I purchased the fabric late last year knowing that I wanted to make this cardigan with it. Sadly, the fabric is no longer available, but the Sunday Cardigan looks great in so many different types of fabric!

A sweater knit version would look great with jeans or pants. You could rock it with boots or flats. I wear my navy rayon spandex Sunday Cardigan with dresses, or thrown over my workout wear if it’s chilly on my way to yoga class.

Other than workout wear, dresses are a big part of my wardrobe, and I like the duster length because it looks great with any length dress. Longer dresses, short dresses, even a high-low hemline. I can rock them all with this cardigan! This foil-print fabric was a JoAnn clearance rack find last Spring. It may be a little dramatic and over-the-top, but sparkly is in, right?

I can’t control the wind, but at least I can look cute in my cardigans! Even when I use the same version of the pattern, I end up with a new look every time because I’ve used different fabrics.

My husband commented that I was looking a little slimmer (thank you yoga class and power walks!) so I cut my pattern down a size and I love the slightly more fitted look even more! I may have to change the title of this post and add another “and again” because I know I’ll be making more. What fabric should I use for my next one?

Hack At It

GreenStyle Lille Tank + Norah Nightgown = A Fun New Workout Top?

I’ve made the GreenStyle Lille Tank before, and it is a great basic racerback tank. I use the optional built-in bra on mine. I could share a pretty modelled photo, but I like this outtake photo better. I really can do a nice Dancer’s Pose in yoga class, despite my laughing and falling out of it while doing photos! I thought it would be fun to hack the Lille with the Norah Nightgown. Say what? This means I can avoid doing binding (which is a win in my sewing book!) and use two great patterns to make something new.

When I do a pattern hack and it turns out successfully, my creativity seems to spark and I like to see what else I can come up with. After hacking the Norah Nightgown to be more supportive and loving the outcome, I figured I could easily mash it into a workout top. I used the same method as in my previous post here, so I won’t repeat myself by showing all of the steps in this post.

Because I am making workout wear, moisture wicking, antimicrobial, and supportive fabric is a must. I used Supplex as my main and lining fabric with Powernet sandwiched in between. The Supplex from Phee Fabrics is my favorite workout fabric.

I made one additional change to the Norah front bodice. I measured 10″ up from the crossover point and made a mark. When cutting out the bodice pieces, I used my clear ruler and rotary cutter to cut a straight line from the point up to the 10″ mark. This gives the bodice a bit more coverage. I also decided to not use the dart or gathers so that I could overlap the front more. I ended up overlapping by 7.5″, This gave me good coverage, and lined up nicely with my band pieces. It’s a good measurement to start with, but you will want to pin or baste, and try on for the best fit.

I used the Lille Tank pattern for the main body portion of my top by using the bottom 14″ of the tank pattern, cutting straight across the top. This ends up being the perfect length for me, you may want it a bit shorter or longer.

I used powernet in the bodice front, back, and straps. As with my nightgown hack, I used 3/8″ elastic along the front 10″ of the bodice, and along the front armpit curve. Because you want lots of support while working out, I gave the elastic a little more pull while sewing this time. When laid flat, it looks rather gathered. But on the body it comfortably hugs and supports the bust. It’s also important to use elastic in the band.

Then it’s just a matter of sewing the Lille front and back together at the side seams, and attaching it to the band. To find the perfect length to hem your top, here’s a tip I picked up from Beth Doglady: “Spread your legs in a standing A shape. Hem it where it rolls up to. This way it won’t roll up on you in workouts.” Brilliant!

I tested my top with some Vinyasa Flow and everything stayed comfortably in place, even during inversions. Now I have a fun new workout top for all my yoga classes. Since working out is more fun when you’re wearing new workout wear, I need to do more sewing! Which pattern should I make next?

GreenStyle Norah Nightgown

My Middle-Aged Version of Sexy 😉

Sometimes you come across a pattern that you don’t know you need until you stop and think about it. It’s always fun to try a new workout wear, or cute top or dress pattern. But when I thought about what was missing in my wardrobe, (really, what needs to be replaced in my wardrobe!) it was summer nightgowns. I live in Florida, so summer nightgowns get worn probably 10 months of the year. And some of my ready-to-wear nightgowns are starting to show that wear. I scrolled through GreenStyle’s patterns, and noticed that the Norah Nightgown looks quite similar to two of my favorite RTW nightgowns. Time to start sewing!

I used some purple rayon spandex from Boho Fabrics that’s been in my stash for my first version. Since I didn’t have any lingerie elastic, stretch lace trim, or lingerie elastic to finish the bodice edges, I decided to “go rogue”, use powernet, and do a lined bodice. I cut the bodice pieces out of the rayon spandex and out of powernet. After sewing the bodice fronts to the bodice back, I laid the rayon spandex (main fabric) and powernet (lining fabric) bodices right sides together, stitched and turned them right side out. I crossed the front over and pinned it and the straps in place and tried it on. It was comfortable and would have worked just fine as a nightgown. Since I was trying to manipulate the pattern into being more dress-like, I wanted it more fitted. I took in the bodice side seams, and while I had it inside out, sewed some 1/4″ elastic along the seam allowances at the center front crossover edges and along the front underarm seams. Making the bodice more fitted gave me the look I was going for! I used elastic in the band, which also added support. This nightgown will get worn all the time.

Once I figured out my method, it was time to move on to some fancy fabric. Valentine’s Day seems like the perfect time to try something sexier. This makes me laugh, because “sexy” is not my style. I like simple, clean lines, and am about 30 pounds and 30 years past dressing sexy! 🙂 Whatever! Embrace where you are in life and go for it, right?

I saw the pretty, wide nude lace in one of Phee Fabrics Facebook posts and immediately wanted to use it. I am not a lace person at all, so this tells you how pretty I thought the lace was! Nude, natural colors seem to be the trend right now, so I was happy to note that Phee Fabrics also has nude circular knit. I placed my order and impatiently waited for the USPS to deliver everything.

I prepped my pattern by tracing the bodice front and bodice back side seams one size smaller. I also moved my bodice dart 1/4″ closer to the side seam so that it would better line up with the bust apex. Because I was working with fancy lace yardage, it made sense to fold the bodice straps down 8″ and cut the back straps as separate pieces. I cut the bodice pieces out of all three fabrics: the wide lace; powernet; and circular knit. The lace was cut on the bias in order to have the lace edge along the center cross-over. I cut the skirt out of the circular knit and powernet, trimming just the bottom hem with the lace.

If the lace and circular knit were an exact color match, I would have just used one layer of fabric for my skirt. If you’re going for sheer and sexy, you could just use the powernet.

Baste the powernet to the bodice lining pieces (in this case, the circular knit). If you want to add removable bra cups or a prostheses, don’t baste the powernet at the bodice front side seam. When you sew the side seams together, sew all layers at the top and bottom for about an inch, leaving the middle 2 to 3 inches of just the front bodice lining free so that you have an opening in the side seams.

Sew the back straps (strips of fabric 8.5″ x 1.5″) to the front straps.

Sew the bodice main fabric and lining layers right sides together, along the side of the straps down the front, and down the other side of the strap and across the back. Don’t forget to leave openings in the back to insert your straps! I found that I like my straps to start about 2″ from center back.

Sew 1/4″ or 3/8″ wide elastic along the center fronts and along the front underarm area stretching slightly as you sew. It’s going to gather your fabric a little bit, but that’s ok, it’s going to look fabulous when it’s on your body!

Then turn your bodice right sides out and press. Don’t forget to press all seams open as you sew. This helps reduce bulk when sewing your layers together, as well as giving your garment a more finished look. Cross the bodice fronts over as per the pattern markings and baste in place. Pin or baste the straps in place and try on for fit. You may want to shorten your straps or move them closer to the center. Maybe you want to cross them in the back. The best part of sewing is that you make garments that fit YOU. Once you’ve decided on strap placement, stitch the straps in place. Lining up the bottom edges of your bodice main and lining fabrics, baste the layers together. This makes it easier when you sew on the band.

Sew on the band according to pattern directions. Cut the band elastic to a snug yet comfortable length and insert into the band. Sew the skirt according to pattern directions. I changed this version up a little bit by gathering a wider section of the center for a softer look. You could also gather the entire skirt, then attach the skirt to the band.

And that’s how I ended up with my middle-aged version of a sexy nightgown! Made in a different fabric, I would totally wear this as a dress.

See what’s missing in your wardrobe and give it a sew!